The best part about being short is small waves are still overhead 🤷🏼♀️ and don’t know why I crouch so low I’m just on a long board. As long as I’ve been surfing I still consider myself a beginner (I don’t get to go surfing often but I started roughly 8 years ago) however it’s one of the best feelings I’ve ever experienced 💞 #purestoke#smallwave#longbaord#surfingsantacruz#thahook
When your surf lesson is cancelled what ya gonna do?! Quick run along the coast to be in awe of the pros surfing, back to the normal bay for early bird swim, braving the cold, no one else was swimming and no one else without wet suit! All in time to grab a super yummy bagel and enjoy the views on yet another beach further down the coasts.
Determined to get some surfing in / attempted surf at some point!
I started taking pictures of surfers for myself, just because I enjoy it. One day John approached me to ask about the pictures I was taking. He told me he's been surfing for several decades and his only picture of him surfing is from when he started. That gave me the idea the ultimately spawned this account. And that's how I began #meetingsurfers.